HOW TO EXTRACT AND COLLECT HOMEMADE FISH EMULSION

     To extract the fish emulsion, you need to separate the liquid part from the solids in the mixture. The solids include sawdust and the still undecomposed parts of the fish like scales, bones, tail, fins and head. The procedure outlined below is labor intensive and will take you 1 hour to extract the fish emulsion and collect it in the plastic bottles.

For safety purposes, wear rubber gloves. Choose gloves that are long and have a thicker lining. You will be handling partially decomposed or undecomposed fish parts and bones that may be sharp and pointed. Wear other safety apparel as needed.

Materials

1.  Fish Emulsion Mixture (that has been aged for a month)

2.  Window Screen, 10" x 10" - 1 pc.

3.  Plastic Bottles with caps - 2 pcs.

4.  Rubber Gloves

5.  Basin

6.  Funnel

7.  Dipper or Ladle

8.  Scissors

9.  Labels

10.Masking Tape

Procedures

Pre-Extraction of the Fish Emulsion

1. Position the basin near the 5-gallon bucket containing the fish emulsion mixture as shown below.

2.  To pre-extract, remove as much of the solids as possible in the mixture.


3.  With your hand, scoop up a mush from the bucket. 
     Wear rubber gloves as you do this.


4.  Squeeze the mush in your hand and let the liquid drip or  trickle down inside the bucket. 

  

 Shown below is the pulp that is left after squeezing the mush.



5.  Put the pulp (squeezed out mush) into the basin.


6. Continue the previous 3 steps until you are left with a slurry inside the bucket that is almost all liquid. Notice the pulp has been piled in the basin at the right and the level of the mixture inside the bucket has gone down.

  

Extracting and Collecting Fish Emulsion in Bottles

1.  For the extraction part, prepare the filter by positioning a funnel in one of the bottles and then lining the window screen piece inside the funnel.


2.  Using a dipper or ladle, scoop up a little of the slurry and pour into the filter as shown  below.

3.  Let the liquid part of the slurry drip down into the funnel and inside the bottle.


4.  When no more liquid is dripping, lift the window screen containing the slurry, by the edges, with the left hand.


5.  Still holding the window screen with the left hand, squeeze the slurry with the right   hand as shown below.

The squeezing is akin to wringing out water from a face towel. Let the squeezed out liquid drip into the funnel and inside the bottle.


6.  As in the pre-extraction process, put the pulp in the basin.


7.  Fill as much plastic bottles as you can with extracted fish emulsion liquid.


Cleaning and Labeling the Fish Emulsion Bottles

1.  Ensure the now-filled up bottles are tightly capped.


2.  With a pair of scissors, cut the old labels of the bottles and remove the old labels.


3.  Clean the outside of the bottles by washing them with soap and water.


4.  With a rag, wipe them dry.


5.  With the new labels, masking tapes and scissors, relabel the bottles of fish emulsion concentrate accordingly.

The above are the finished products of the homemade fish emulsion fertilizer DIY project. The liquid emulsion is highly concentrated and should not be used as is, directly to your garden plants. Dilute to apply the homemade fish emulsion as fertilizer.

PEST FIGHTING FLOWERS

  

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     One of the great things about vegetable gardening is that at some point or stage it can take care of itself. No, I don't mean abandoning your garden chores (sorry). One of the ways you can get "help" is to select plants, particularly flowers, for your garden that will help control insect pests.
Certain flowers contain properties that either invite beneficial insects or repel harmful insects. Beneficial insects prey on pests that cause damage in the garden; ladybugs and praying mantises are good examples.
Using flowers for pest control not only cuts down on your workload, but it also reduces the amount of pesticides that you have to resort to. Fewer pesticides means more good bugs, which in turn means help in controlling bad bugs.
     That said, what works in my veggie garden may not work in yours. Every garden has a different growing climate, soil type, and of course, pests. You will have to experiment to find out what works best for your situation. Choosing flowers and other plants that are native to your area will help, as the beneficial insects will already know what to look for.

     Without further ado, here's an incomplete, yet helpful list of your "fighting flowers".

Borage
Although it is an herb, borage can deter hornworms and cabbage worms, and is believed to help almost any plant increase its resistance to disease and pests.

Chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums have large flower heads in white, yellow or pink, and they can be quite helpful with pests in the garden. Some varieties have been made into a tea for use as a pesticide to kill root nematodes and repel Japanese beetles.

Dahlias
Dahlias grow flowers with a variety of shapes and colors, making them a popular choice for flower gardeners. They’re said to also repel nematodes, making them both beautiful and useful in your vegetable garden.

Four O’Clocks
Four O’Clock flowers will attract and kill Japanese beetles, making them an excellent bait flower to place near your vegetable gardens. These flowers are also poisonous to pets and people too however, so take care to choose safe locations if you choose to plant these.

Lavender 
Lavender is an excellent general pest repellent flower to use in your garden. It repels both fleas and moths, and it can help protect other plants near it from whiteflies.

Marigolds
The marigold is probably the most well known plant for repelling insects. French marigolds repel whiteflies and kill bad nematodes. Mexican marigolds are said to "bug" many destructive insects. Marigold flowers come in scented and unscented varieties, with the scented ones are best used for pest deterrents. And while this plant drives away many bad bugs, it also attracts spider mites and snails.

Nasturtiums
Nasturtiums planted near tomatoes and cucumbers can fight off aphids, whiteflies, squash bugs, and cucumber beetles. The flowers, especially the yellow blooming varieties, act as a trap for aphids.

Petunias
Petunias can repel asparagus beetles, leafhoppers, aphids, tomato hornworms, and others.

Sunflowers
Sunflowers might be the largest flower you have in your garden, and what a better beacon to say "come on over" to beneficial pollinators. I've heard that they can draw aphids away from other plants.

NATURAL HOMEMADE PESTICIDES

http://tipnut.com/natural-pesticides/

Recipes & Tips

These homemade pesticides are cheap and easy to make with many being just as effective as some commercial products on the market. No fancy ingredients required, everything you need is likely stocked in your kitchen and garden. Most of the ingredients are earth friendly and natural with the harshest being liquid dish detergent–no need to use toxic chemicals!
Tip: The best method of pest control in the garden is to keep your plants healthy so they don’t attract bugs. Fertilize as needed (see How To Make Compost Tea) and stay on top of weeds by pulling them as they appear or using weed killers (see Homemade Weed Killer Recipes & Tips).
Begin treating for insects as soon as you notice signs of an infestation, the sooner you start the easier it will be to get rid of the critters.

Note: For recipes that require liquid dish detergent, use the basic stuff–nothing fancy with added bleach, nothing concentrated and no special antibacterial formulas. You can also substitute with a gentler liquid soap such as liquid castile or a perfume free, gentle liquid hand soap.
Update: As with all pesticides, take care when applying to food bearing plants, handling and storage of the pesticide. No one needs reminding I’m sure, but wash all produce well before consuming.
Rhubarb Leaf Mix
1 cup rhubarb leaves
6.5 cups water
1/4 cup liquid dish detergent or soap flakes

• Cover rhubarb leaves with water and bring to a boil. Boil for 20 minutes then remove from heat and cool. Strain then add 1/4 cup liquid dish detergent. Apply. Good for aphids, june beetles, spider mites, thrips.
• Rhubarb leaves are poisonous, take care when preparing and handling. Do not use on food bearing plants.

Garlic Tea

• Make your own garlic spray by boiling a pint of water, throw in roughly chopped garlic cloves and steep until the water cools. Remove garlic bits then apply.

Garlic, Peppers & Onion Insecticide
2 hot peppers
1 large onion
1 whole bulb of garlic
1/4 cup water

• Toss in the food processor and add water, blend until a mash is made. Cover mash with 1 gallon hot (not boiling) water and let stand 24 hours. Strain. Spray on roses, azaleas, vegetables to kill bug infestations. Bury mash in ground where bugs are heaviest. Good for thrips, aphids, grasshoppers, chewing and sucking insects.

Tomato Leaves Mix

• Crush leaves from a tomato plant and soak in water for a couple days. Strain then spray. Good for grasshopper and white fly control.
• Tomato leaves are poisonous, take care when preparing and handling. Do not use on food bearing plants.

Basil Tea
4 cups water
1 cup fresh basil (or 2 TBS dried)
1 tsp liquid dish detergent

• Bring water to a boil then add basil. Remove from heat, cover and steep until cool. Strain. Mix in the liquid detergent then apply. Good for aphids.

Onion Insect Repellent For Plants
*First published May 18, 2007 and moved to this page for better organization

Save Onion Peels & Bits To Make Your Own Garden Brew

• Save onion skins, peels and ends then refrigerate in an empty margarine-sized tub or ziploc bag until the container is full.
• Once you have enough, place the onion pieces in a pail and fill with warm water. Soak for a few days, up to a week. Optional: You can keep this on the patio in the sun to steep.
• After one week, strain the onion bits out and store the onion water in spray bottles. Bury the onion bits around plants that are prone to aphids, spiders and other pests.
• Spray both house and garden plants with the water to fight aphids and pests.

*You could also mix your garlic trimmings in with the onion pieces, bugs hate garlic too.
Salt Spray
2 TBS salt
1.5 gallons warm water

• Mix salt and water to dissolve, allow to cool to room temperature. Use for spider mites, caterpillars, cabbage worms and chewing insects.

Epsom Salt Spray
2 ounces of salt
2 gallons water

• Benefits: Helps with Black Spot, Mildew, Wilt and Rust

Slug Bait Trap

• Set out beer in shallow containers to attract slugs, they’ll drown in the beer. See more tips on this page.

Diatomaceous Earth

• An all natural solution for insects of all kinds (ants, snails, slugs, etc.). Sprinkle diatomaceous earth on top of soil around plants with pest problems.

Horticultural Oil Mix
1 TBS vegetable oil
1 tsp liquid dish detergent
2 cups water

• Fill a spray bottle with the ingredients then shake to mix.

Hot Pepper Recipe
1/2 cup hot peppers (or 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper)
1 quart water
1 tsp liquid dish detergent

• Bring water to a boil, remove from heat and add peppers. Cover and steep until cool. Strain then mix in soap. If using cayenne pepper, no need to bring water to a boil first. Apply.

Citrus Spray
2 cups orange peels (or lemons)
4 cups water

• Bring water to a boil, remove from heat and add peels. Cover and steep until cool. Strain and use. Use the lemon mixture to repel white flies.

Dish Detergent & Baking Soda
2 TBS liquid dish detergent
2 TBS baking soda
1 gallon water

• Mix all ingredients together then use.

Peppermint Tea
1 TBS peppermint essential oil (can also use an infusion made with mint leaves, increase amount to 1 cup infusion)
1 quart water

• Mix together and use as an insect spray (good for ants).

Japanese Beetle Bait Trap
2 cups water
1 mashed banana
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup wine
1/2 tsp yeast

• Mix ingredients together and put in an old margarine container, cover with lid and set container out in the hot sun for a day. The next day, remove lid and set in garden where the beetles have been spotted (use a shallow container).

Potato Leaves Tea
1 cup potato plant leaves
2 cups water

• Chop leaves then cover with hot water. Seal container and leave 24 hours in a sunny window. Strain then use.
• Potato leaves are poisonous, take care when preparing and handling. Do not use on food bearing plants.

Neem Spray
1 TBS Neem soap (shavings)
1 liter water

• Add soap to water then let sit for an hour. Shake bottle then use.

Mineral Oil Mix
3 parts oil per 100 parts water

• Benefits: Helps with Aphids, Codling Moth, Leaf Roller, Mealybugs, Scaled Insects, White Fly

Easy Soap Flakes Spray
2 TBS soap flakes (don’t use detergents)
dissolved in 1 quart water

• Benefits: Aphid control

Pest Prevention Concentrate
*First published February 1, 2008 and moved to this page for better organization

Vegetable Oil Can Be An Effective Ingredient For Organic Pest Control

Here’s a short and sweet recipe for both garden and houseplants. You can use this as a preventative spray as well as a bug and pest killer.
Ingredients:
1 cup Sunlight dish soap
1 TBS vegetable oil
Directions:

• Mix ingredients together then store in a plastic, airtight container.
• When you’re ready to use, take 1 to 2 teaspoons of the concentrate and mix with a quart of water. Pour into a spray bottle.
• When applying make sure to get underneath the leaves as well as the flower buds and new shoots.
• In hot weather, repeat every third day (3 applications over 7 days).
• Warm to cool weather, use once a week for 3 weeks.

Tips

• Apply the treatment on top of the leaves as well as underneath–don’t overdo it, excess can cause damage.
• Most recipes can be used effectively with just a weekly treatment. Excessive use may affect the plant as well as kill the good insects you want to encourage in your garden (earthworms, bees, ladybugs, etc.). If you aren’t seeing results with a 7 day treatment, you can bump it up to 5 days but watch carefully to make sure plants can handle it without being damaged.
• Avoid treating during hot sunny weather, do so later in the day to reduce the risk of burning.
• If it looks like rain, delay until the weather is clear since any rain will wash away the new application. If it has recently rained, wait till greenery is dry before applying to prevent the mix being diluted with water.
• When trying a new recipe, test on just a couple leaves first (apply then watch how the test leaves react after two or three days, if no signs of damage proceed with spraying the whole plant).

Organic Garden Aids

*First published June 5, 2007 and moved to this page for better organization
With a little bit of planning you can help cut down on pests and disease organically by growing natural repellents near problem areas. Here are a few suggestions…
Rosemary, Mint, Thyme: Grow near cabbage
Benefits: Repels cabbage worms
Nasturtiums: Position near cucumbers, melons and squashes.
Benefits: Repels squash bugs
Summer Savory: Position near beans
Benefits: Repels bean beetles
Radishes: Grow near cucumbers
Benefits: Repels cucumber beetles

Visiting N.D. Chapter #3 & #2

N.D. #3

     Max and I arrived at Sandy's place about 15 minutes before the other class members.  His 160 acres of breath taking beauty was enhanced by its many spring fed ponds; it was so captivating it kept our eyes glued to the scenery round about rather than what we should have been focusing on.  The garden location next to his house sets at an elevation of around 1500 feet and this sizable little valley was surrounded by thick forested mountains giving him an extraordinarily good micro climate for growing his food in.  Sandy stated that he receives just as much sun (when it is shinning) in the winter time as he does in the summer.  

     As we toured his orchard I noticed that there was an old apple tree that could rival many of the oaks I've seen in Idaho County (maybe a bit of an exaggeration, but it was huge!).  

This old apple tree has seen many years of production

     He had drastically cut the tree back the year before but looking at the size of the trunk one would have to agree that it must have been a beast.  There was a great number of new shoots springing from its trunk and lower branches.  Sandy said that although they were a small to medium apples they were very tasty.  

    

     Sandy told us that a cherry tree (below) died and had grown back from the root.  Yes even the part to the right that looks like the parent tree was a sucker. It had plenty of beautiful blossoms on it but he had not tasted the fruit in any of the previous years.  

What seems to be the tree with suckers is actually a sucker itself

     Looking at the body of his orchard it was ascertained that once he places 8 inches of chips around the trees he should plant a ring of chives a foot away from the trunks which would assist in repealing most crawling insects.  Also if a ring of comfrey were to be planted at the drip-line of each tree they could be cut several times a year for fertilizer by just letting them lay, but remember it is more productive as a fertilizer if the comfrey is cut prior to flowering.  This would give needed nutrients to the trees eliminating in time the need for commercial or animal fertilizers.

Just a few of the trees in his well established orchard

     There were about 5 or more Hazel nut trees that had been cut down to about 4 feet tall.  Each had twenty or more trunks making it look more like a hedge than a tree, the excess trunks needed to be removed  so the trees could produce sizable fruit.  I found several nuts still clinging to one tree which were no larger than an eraser on a pencil.   

I didn't know what kind of tree this was until I found a couple of nuts on them

     Max explained the importance of dormant spraying of fruit trees and recommended that it be applied twice, once in the fall (after going dormant) and once in the spring before budding.  This procedure will help protect trees from bugs and disease.     

     It was also noted that the pond near his home could support over 2,000 pounds of fish annually.  We discussed the benefits of raising yellow perch verses bluegill or large and small mouth bass.  The yellow perch is a more hardy cold tolerant fish that seems to be very prolific.  The question was posed as to feeding or maintaining that volume of aquatic life without the benefit of store bought food.  The simple answer was to grow comfrey along the banks of the pond so it could be cut periodically through the spring summer and fall for food, comfrey is high in protein plus it floats and fish love it!

     It was also discussed how to construct a pond that would allow the dead bottom water to be released first so as to retain the fresher more oxygenated water for healthier fish.  That would involve placing a six inch pipe across the dam at the desired water height with a pipe on either side of the dam connected to it following the contour acting as a straw to relieve bottom water first.  One would still need an over flow pipe of trench. 

• Sandy then showed everyone his nursery and the garden kit he is using to spray his garden. 
• He showed the class his potting soil derived from Johnny’s Selected Seeds
• He showed off his brand new BRIX meter and measured a random plant for sugar/mineral content.
• The class sat in the comfort of his home and talked of preparedness issues.  Other sites that were discussed: Natural News, Doom and Bloom

Next meeting:

• Pat Threewit will teach on the basic herbs for survival.  He has a book he will share on the subject.

If you know of others in the area that might be interested in attending Neighborhood Dirt #3 meetings please pass this on.

We meet at (430 Cedar Creek Rd, Kooskia) at 6:30PM every other Thursday.

Announcements

• On June 12th there is a planed aqua-ponics tour for all Neighborhood Dirt members at 6:30 PM at the north end of the Kooskia High School. 

Of course every member of Neighborhood Dirt knows that the focus and purpose of these classes are:

1. To get to know your immediate fence line neighbors for better relationships. Good neighbors during good times are always desired, but good neighbors during bad times are essential. 
2. Sharing knowledge on gardening and related subjects, learning how our ancestors survived on what they produced. 
3. Plus, just having some good old fashion fun!

***

Sandy said:  "Since I myself am a beginner gardener I can only share what I have read not what I have done but others attending have years of experience"  

Meetings will continue through the summer or until demand falls off.

If you would like to be added to (or taken off of) this email list, please let me know.

Sandy Staab

208-926-4450

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N.D. #2

     Max and I next visited Andy and his group.  By spending the lions share of our alloted time with ND#3 we only caught the last half hour of the class.  Before we arrived they had toured Andy's garden discussing Hugel Kultur and related subjects and then returned to a neighbors house where their meeting continued.

     Much was discussed about soil and companion planting.  Andy sent this chart to help those who didn't get enough time to examine it during the class.  all in all Max and I had a great time with like minded people.

GROWING GINGER

Have you tried growing ginger yet?

Ginger Roots

Ginger, known as Zingiber officinale or official ginger is a very easy herb to grow. Even better? You can probably find a start at the grocery store.

This is not the tropical ginger with flashy blooms that you see in Hawaiian photos, but rather the ginger root you use in gingerbread! If you grow your own you can use it fresh or even dry it.

If you can find an organic piece of ginger root with some eye buds forming (sort of like the eyes on a potato) you will have a ginger plant sooner rather than later.

Ginger Roots-See the Green Eye Buds?

Although it is easy to grow in a container or in the garden, Ginger has a few requirements for growing well.

      It likes warmth.

      It likes partial shade.

      It likes moist, rich soil.

If you can provide these things, you can grow your own ginger root!

Here’s the “Ginger Growing 4-1-1″ :

Find a nice ginger root (known as a rhizome) at the store. Look for eye bud swellings.

If you can get them, an organic rhizome is probably better because non organic roots may be treated with a growth inhibitor, and you may want to eat your root at some point! If you can’t find anything else, grab the non organic anyway and give it a try. Organic or not, I have never had one NOT grow!

If you have a large root with several eye growth buds, you can break the root into several pieces, each with an eye bud and plant them all!

Dig your spot in the garden, or use a good potting mix and fill your container nearly full. Plant the ginger just an inch or two beneath the soil, making sure the eye buds are pointing upward!

Ginger root with growth buds facing up!

Cover the root and water.

A 12″ pot can probably handle two roots, larger containers can handle another one or two. Plastic is best, roots can get ‘stuck’ in terra cotta and you may shatter pots when digging the roots.

Make sure you keep the rhizomes moist, out of bright direct sun and wind.

Compared to other herbs, Ginger plants are ‘slow pokes’ when it comes to growing. They will eventually reach a height of  2 feet or more in a container and may hit a height of 2 to 3 feet in the garden.

Ginger growing nicely!

You can harvest your rhizomes at any time after the plant has grown for several months, but the longer you can keep the plant growing the larger your harvest will be. You may notice the rhizome has some roots. You can just cut them off and use the ginger root, or save a piece (with a growth bud) for re-planting!

You may also notice new ‘buds’ forming at the top of the rhizome. These can be separated and planted for even more ginger!

New Ginger Babies!

Since I live where it’s cold in the winter I usually start mine in the greenhouse early in Spring, or in the house in February. Once night temperatures are above 60*F I set them out and let them grow all summer (If your nights do not remain over 60 degrees move the pot indoors). Roots are harvested when the leaves start to die back in the fall- but before a frost. Frost kills the plant and can harm the roots.

If your ginger has been growing awhile you might find the roots have gotten quite a bit larger by the time you harvest!

If you don’t want to harvest just yet-

You can bring the whole pot inside and store it somewhere dry and cool, but not cold. Remember, it’s a tropical plant! Don’t water it. Don’t even look at. Next year when the weather warms you can add some nice compost, set it out where it will be toasty and watch it begin growing again.

You can also keep it in a warm, well lit area and keep it as a houseplant.

Ginger Foliage and Root

Zingiber officinale does not produce a showy blossom like many tropical plants, and the way I usually grow mine does not allow time for the plant to bloom anyway. If you overwinter yours, or you live somewhere warm, humid and tropical you might get a few ‘plain Jane’ blooms from your Ginger plant.

Let the club know of your success in growing indoor ginger!

HUGEL KULTUR/ HUGEL CULTURE

     Our Thursday night class demonstration by Robert (aka bobby ward) gave us a preview into his new and exciting venture using Hugel Kultur in his garden.  Hugel Kultur is a word of German/Austrian origin  meaning hill or mound... therefore it relays to us the idea of mound culture.  The jest of this activity as it relates to our gardens is simply placing old wood, preferably dry, in a trench, and then layering it with green leaves, grass or other similar material then dirt and finally compost and mulch.  As I did a little perusing through the matrix of the internet I learned that some sites state that the mound performs far better when the wood (logs) is stood on its end, thus allowing the log to act like a wick in moving the moisture more proficiently upward.  I could go on and on about Hugel Kultur, but I thought a picture or a bunch of pictures would be worth a thousand or thousands of words.


You can just view the following site or click on the many pictures and travel as far as you would like to go.... have fun!

Click on the following link and if doesn't take you straight to the site a smaller link will appear, click that and enjoy. 

http://www.google.com/search?q=hugelkultur&biw=1584&bih=868&tbm=isch&imgil=id2X4XGNOPlWSM%3A%3Bhttp%3A%2F%2Ft3.gstatic.com%2Fimages%3Fq%3Dtbn%3AANd9GcR6lnWaEDZRiuu727_0EBebCZ86cieXExhrpzcW4QJhaLVEScmktg%3B460%3B324%3BTCPL-a4knma2mM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.permaculture.co.uk%252Farticles%252Fmany-benefits-hugelkultur&source=iu&usg=__kJIv11JBVjynCQOBVGS6ToIeBcI=&sa=X&ei=sYlpU8KqE4KOyATgj4KoAg&sqi=2&ved=0CDMQ9QEwAg#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=id2X4XGNOPlWSM%3A;TCPL-a4knma2mM;http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permaculture.co.uk%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fimages%2FHugelkultur_0.standard%2520460x345.png;http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permaculture.co.uk%2Farticles%2Fmany-benefits-hugelkultur;460;324

Thanks Bobby Ward for a great time in your garden.

2 NEW GROUPS FORMED

     Over the last couple of weeks 'two' new Neighborhood Dirt groups have been formed, they will henceforth be designated as Neighborhood Dirt #2 and #3.  A fourth group is in the making as I write this.  We have for obvious reasons opted not to disclose the areas in which these groups are located in, that is up to them to release that information.  Great work people, keep it up and as it begins to catch on, this area could bolster even greater things!